Journey over, sorrowless, freed in every way, and with all bonds broken - for such a man there is no more distress.
I surf because it keeps my life at an even keel, without it I would tip into the oblivion.
If you dont see me on tour, its because I have found happiness away from winning, and that might be the biggest achievement I could ever accomplish.
You gotta go in the mud sometimes to figure who you are.
Living a happy life is my main priority. You guys may think I am selfish for "wasting my talent" by staying away from events for a bit, but I am finally at a comfortable place where I can honestly say, if you guys see me out on tour again it's because I am there to win, and I'm going to go 100%.
I try changing my surfing, which is the absolute worst thing you can do. Everyone surfs their own way. If I try to surf like someone else I look like a dork.
Every time I look in the mirror, I see that kid from Louisville, Kentucky, staring back at me. His name was Cassius Clay.
It isn't that easy to live according to intuition, yet, it's so totally cool once we can get beyond the other voices and hear our intuition.
What you see with your eyes is not necessarily real.
You can't find peace by hiding from life