Poor-country surf communities can be complex and, to some extent, leveling. The fisherman's kid is competing head to … - William Finnegan

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Quote of the day

No longer mourn for me when I am dead Than you shall hear the surly sullen bell Give warning to the world that I am fled From this vile world, with vilest worms to dwell.

William Finnegan

Poor-country surf communities can be complex and, to some extent, leveling. The fisherman's kid is competing head to head with the plutocrat's gilded son. Your father can't buy you a good frontside hack.

Buy, Country, Father, Gilded, Hack, Kids

Same Author Quotes

I'm trying to find out what's actually true, which is nearly always something, if not a world of things, that you can't read in books.

Actually, Book, Nearly, Read, Trying, World

Rich white people show up in a poor country to pursue their leisure-time fun, get served by black and brown people, and live in relative - or absolute - comfort. In the water, that situation can get turned on its head, though. Local kids learn to surf, know the breaks, and take most or all of the best waves, fuming turistas be damned.

Country, Fun, Kids, People, Relative, Water

Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing, and many Hawaiians or part-Hawaiians surf, but in the rest of the United States it's a pretty white sport.

Hawaii, Rest, Sport, Sports, Surfing, White

Memoir is a weird genre for a reporter. You end up investigating your own memories, reporting out your past.

Ends, Genre, Investigating, Memories, Past, Weird

I always wanted to write. While I was on a long surf trip, supporting myself with various day jobs, I was working hard on a novel. My third novel, in fact.

Day, Jobs, Long, Novel, Writing