I always wanted to write. While I was on a long surf trip, supporting myself with various day … - William Finnegan

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There’s nothing better than excelling at a game you love. There’s nothing worse than thinking your accomplishments as a player outweigh your responsibilities as a person.

William Finnegan

I always wanted to write. While I was on a long surf trip, supporting myself with various day jobs, I was working hard on a novel. My third novel, in fact.

Day, Jobs, Long, Novel, Writing

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I'm trying to find out what's actually true, which is nearly always something, if not a world of things, that you can't read in books.

Actually, Book, Nearly, Read, Trying, World

Rich white people show up in a poor country to pursue their leisure-time fun, get served by black and brown people, and live in relative - or absolute - comfort. In the water, that situation can get turned on its head, though. Local kids learn to surf, know the breaks, and take most or all of the best waves, fuming turistas be damned.

Country, Fun, Kids, People, Relative, Water

Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing, and many Hawaiians or part-Hawaiians surf, but in the rest of the United States it's a pretty white sport.

Hawaii, Rest, Sport, Sports, Surfing, White

Memoir is a weird genre for a reporter. You end up investigating your own memories, reporting out your past.

Ends, Genre, Investigating, Memories, Past, Weird

It's completely different, for instance, to report on poor farmers in Africa than it is to report on, say, poor African-Americans. The familiarity of my readers with the terrain, and their preconceptions, are quite different in those two cases, and their perspective, as I imagine it, has to be taken into account at every turn.

Imagine, Perspective, Poor, Quite, Taken, Two