There's a big difference between wanting to work and having to work. And I had to learn that the hard way. Now money is very important to me, because I ain't got it.
It's been amazing to touch people's lives.
Being able to turn to Jesus after the shark attack kept me alive.
In the end, my love for surfing helped me overcome my fear of sharks.
Compassion can drive us to do amazing things and give us perspective.
God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.
I think it doesn't matter if you are the best surfer in the world. I'm going to try to be the best surfer I can be. It's not all about competing and being the best. It's more about having fun and just doing what you love.
I will protect those who cannot protect themselves.
10% of life is made up of what happens to you. 90% of life is decided by how you react.
If you wait till you're very sure, then you'll find yourself doing it, and when you do there'll be an ease.
My rule in making up examination questions is to ask questions which I can't myself answer. It astounds me to see how some of my students answer questions which would play the deuce with me.