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Don't be afraid to feel as angry or as loving as you can, because when you feel nothing, it's just death.

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Kelly Slater

Fatherhood isn't always a planned thing, but when it happens you just do it. It's very natural and in that sense it's not really difficult.

Difficult, Fatherhood, Happens, Natural, Planned
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I didn't think that wave was going to offer a ton,. . . But the wave just held form, and I was able to get a lot out of it.

Able, Offer, Thinking, Ton, Wave

I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.

Ahead, Feels, Like, Stills, Surfing

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.

Appreciation, Gets, Sports, Think, Time, Weird

It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.

Like, Mafia, Surf, Surfing

Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.

Inspiration, Motivation, Permanent
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