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The thing that I have done throughout my life is to do the best job that I can and to be me.

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William Finnegan

The differences between the received wisdom, the standard version of events, and the facts on the ground may be subtle or they may be stark, even profound.

Differences, Events, Profound, Stark, Wisdom
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I'm trying to find out what's actually true, which is nearly always something, if not a world of things, that you can't read in books.

Actually, Book, Nearly, Read, Trying, World

Rich white people show up in a poor country to pursue their leisure-time fun, get served by black and brown people, and live in relative - or absolute - comfort. In the water, that situation can get turned on its head, though. Local kids learn to surf, know the breaks, and take most or all of the best waves, fuming turistas be damned.

Country, Fun, Kids, People, Relative, Water

Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing, and many Hawaiians or part-Hawaiians surf, but in the rest of the United States it's a pretty white sport.

Hawaii, Rest, Sport, Sports, Surfing, White

Memoir is a weird genre for a reporter. You end up investigating your own memories, reporting out your past.

Ends, Genre, Investigating, Memories, Past, Weird

I always wanted to write. While I was on a long surf trip, supporting myself with various day jobs, I was working hard on a novel. My third novel, in fact.

Day, Jobs, Long, Novel, Writing
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