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In the United States, there is no end which human will despairs of attaining through the combined power of individuals united in a society.

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J. B. Priestley

But some of us are beginning to pull well away, in our irritation, from. . . the exquisite tasters, the vintage snobs, the three-star Michelin gourmets. There is, we feel, a decent area somewhere between boiled carrots and Beluga caviare, sour plonk and Chateau Lafitte, where we can take care of our gullets and bellies without worshipping them.